Warning, Counterfeit: How to Distinguish Original Premium Pet Food from Fake Products

The market for pet products is growing rapidly, and unfortunately, so is the number of unscrupulous sellers trying to cash in on the love owners have for their animals. When buying an expensive bag of “Royal Canin” or “Pro Plan”, we hope to give our pets the best, but sometimes instead of a balanced diet, we end up with a dangerous mixture of cereal waste and chemical flavourings. The problem of counterfeit pet food is more acute than it might seem at first glance. Learn more on Tvaryny.

Why is the premium and super-premium segment targeted?

The economics of counterfeiting are simple. No one bothers faking economy-class food where the profit margins are minimal. The main blow falls on famous brands: Royal Canin, Purina Pro Plan, Hill’s, Acana, Monge. The cost of a 10kg bag of such food can reach £70-£90, while the production cost of a fake often doesn’t exceed £5-£8.

Fraudsters use several schemes:

• Full imitation: printing their own bags that visually resemble the original and filling them with cheap raw materials.
• Content swapping: buying original bags (for example, from kennels or veterinary clinics), carefully opening them, and then resealing them with new contents.
• Loose sale: selling “original food by weight” from huge sacks, where the buyer doesn’t see the factory packaging at all.

Stage 1: Visual Inspection of the Packaging

The first line of defence is a careful inspection of the packaging before you even pay for the item. If you order food online, always check it upon delivery or at the post office. Don’t be shy about spending 5 minutes on an inspection – it is your right.

Print and Material Quality

Major manufacturers spend millions on packaging equipment. An original bag of premium food is always made of high-quality, dense material (multi-layer polymer or foil packaging). A fake often gives itself away:

• Dull colours: Counterfeiters don’t have access to industrial printing presses, so colours may be less saturated, or conversely – too “acidic” and bright.
• Text displacement: If the text overlaps the image of the animal or the logo, this is a 100% sign of a fake. In the original, quality control would not let such a defect pass.
• Image quality: The photo of the dog or cat on the package should be sharp, with detailed fur texture. On fakes, you can often see “pixelation” or blurred outlines.

Airtightness and Zip-Lock

Most premium class manufacturers equip packages (especially those weighing 1.5 kg or more) with convenient closing systems – Zip-Locks or Velcro-style seals.

Signs of a fake:

• The Zip-Lock is missing where it should be (check the manufacturer’s official website to see what the packaging looks like for that specific weight).
• The fastener is glued on crookedly or tears off when first opened.
• The top seal looks untidy, showing signs of resealing (melted plastic, burn marks). The original seam is always perfectly straight and often has a characteristic ribbed texture from the factory press.

Stage 2: The Magic of Numbers – Barcode and Batch Code

Many owners believe that scanning a barcode with a smartphone guarantees authenticity. This is a myth. A barcode can simply be copied and printed on thousands of fake packets. The app will show you that it is “Dog Food X”, but that doesn’t mean the contents of the bag match the name. Much more important is the batch code and the production date.

How to read the marking?

Every package has a special field where the marking is applied by laser or ink. It usually contains:

1. Date of manufacture.
2. Best Before date.
3. Batch code.
4. Registration number of the manufacturing plant.

What to look out for:

• Durability of the print: Try rubbing the date with your finger. On original packaging, the inscription should not rub off or smudge. If the numbers disappear – you are looking at a fake.
• Uniqueness: If you buy several bags of the same food, pay attention to the production time (if indicated). On a factory conveyor belt, the time changes every minute. If all bags say “14:02”, for example – this is cause for concern.
• Country of manufacture: Check the first digits of the barcode. For instance, Royal Canin is produced in various countries (France, Poland, and previously Russia – note: always check the importer to avoid buying goods from sanctioned territories; generally, UK stock comes from the EU). The country code on the barcode must match the “Made in…” inscription on the package.

Check Element	Original	Counterfeit
Package seam	Even, ribbed, no melting marks	Uneven, traces of glue, burn marks
Smell of food	Pleasant, meaty, unobtrusive	Sharp, chemical, smell of rancid fat
Kibble	Uniform, slightly oily (in moderation)	Different sizes, dry, crumbles in hand
Date marking	Clear, does not rub off	Smudges, applied crookedly
Price	Market price (±10% promos)	Suspiciously low (-30-50%)

Stage 3: Organoleptic Analysis of Contents

If the packaging didn’t raise suspicions, or you have already opened the food, it’s time to examine the kibble itself. This is the most accurate way to detect a fake, but it requires you to know what the original looks like.

Appearance of Kibble (Croquettes)

Manufacturers put a lot of effort into ensuring that kibble is of uniform shape and size. This ensures proper chewing and teeth cleaning.

• Shape: Fakes often contain broken kibble and a lot of crumbs at the bottom of the bag (so-called “dust”). In original premium food, there is practically no dust.
• Colour: Original food usually has a uniform brown colour (from light to dark). If you see kibble that is unnaturally red, green, or too light, this is a sign of dyes which are not used in the super-premium segment.
• Greasiness: Good food feels slightly oily to the touch, but not wet. Fat is a natural preservative and flavour enhancer. A fake is often too dry, like dried bread, or conversely – sticky from cheap oil.

Smell – the main indicator

Open the bag and have a smell. The scent should be pleasant (it might be specific to pet owners, but not repulsive). You should smell dried meat, liver, or fish. Warning bells:

• Smell of rancid old lard (a sign of fat oxidation).
• Sharp chemical smell (similar to plastic or solvent).
• Smell of mould or dampness.
• Complete absence of smell (a sign that the main ingredient is cellulose or grain).

The Water Test

A simple experiment: throw a few pieces of kibble into a glass of warm water. High-quality food swells, increasing in size but retaining its shape. If the granules turn into a shapeless mush within 10-15 minutes (“overcooked porridge”), it means the composition is dominated by cheap carbohydrates and lacks a meat structure. This is a typical sign of economy class or a fake.

Why fakes are dangerous: it’s not just diarrhea

Why do we emphasise authenticity so much? It’s not just about paying for a brand and getting a dummy product. The health consequences can be fatal.

• Mykotoxins: Grain of the lowest quality, often affected by mould, is used for fakes. Toxins accumulate in the animal’s body, destroying the liver and causing cancer.
• Mineral imbalance: Excess phosphorus and magnesium (cheap fillers) leads to urolithiasis (kidney stones) in cats within a matter of weeks.
• Allergic reactions: Unknown dyes and preservatives can cause severe dermatitis, hair loss, and anaphylactic shock.

Very often, owners think the animal simply “overate” or “picked something up on the street”, not suspecting that poison is in their own bowl every day.

Where are fakes most often found?

Statistics show that the risk of buying a counterfeit depends on the place of purchase. Let’s rank them from most to least risky:

1. Loose food at markets and small stalls: Highest risk. You don’t see the bag, you don’t know the opening date (opened food oxidises in 2-3 weeks), and you can’t check the dates. Cheap food of a similar shape is often poured into expensive sacks.
2. Dubious online shops and classified ads (Gumtree, eBay, Facebook Marketplace): If you see a price 30-40% lower than the market rate and the seller claims it’s a “warehouse clearance” or “confiscated goods” – it’s a lie. Miracles don’t happen. It is either expired stock or a fake.
3. Supermarkets: The risk is minimal, but it happens. Usually, chains work with official distributors.
4. Specialist pet shops and vets: The safest option. They value their reputation and have direct contracts with the official brand representatives in the UK.

What to do if you suspect a fake?

If you have doubts after opening the package, or the animal refuses to eat (even though they ate this food well before), do not force them.

• Do not throw away the packaging and reciept! These are your main pieces of evidence.
• Contact the manufacturer’s helpline. Telephone numbers are always on the packaging. Send them a photo of the batch code. An official representative can check if such a batch was produced and where it was shipped.
• Demand a refund. Under the Consumer Rights Act, you have the right to return goods that are not of satisfactory quality. If the shop refuses, you can report them to Trading Standards.

Expert tip: If you have found a reliable supplier, try not to change them. A saving of £2-£3 on a bag could cost thousands in vet bills.

Interactive Buyer’s Checklist

Save this short list before you buy:

• The packaging is intact, with no traces of glue or tape.
• The date and batch marking is printed clearly and does not rub off.
• The brand name is spelled without errors (sometimes one letter is changed, e.g., “Rojal Canin”).
• There is a sticker with the composition in English (mandatory for imported foods).
• The price is not anomalously low.

Conclusion

The health of your four-legged friend is your responsibility. The market for fakes exists only because people look for the lowest price, ignoring common sense. Be attentive, check the packaging, smell the food, and observe the condition of the coat and activity of the animal. High-quality food is an invesment in the long and happy life of your pet. And remember that if you buy cheap, you pay twice, and in the case of animals, the price can be too high.