Domestic Cat

The Domestic Cat (Domestic Shorthair/Longhair or Moggy) isn’t a separate breed in the traditional sense. Rather, it’s a general name for the huge population of cats of mixed or unknown origin that don’t belong to any recognised feline breed. These are the very cats we see most often around us – in yards, on the streets, and, of course, in our homes. They are the descendants of the first domesticated cats and make up the vast majority of the planet’s feline population. Their history and incredible diversity are what make them so special. More on this later on Tvaryny.

Despite the lack of a standardised appearance or pedigree, domestic cats are incredibly diverse in size, colour, coat length, and character. Each “moggy” is a unique individual, shaped by natural selection and a random combination of genes. They are hardy, adaptable animals that have lived alongside humans for millennia, serving as companions and skilled hunters of rodents. Their low-maintenance nature, variety, and often robust health make them the most popular feline pets in the world.

The Domestic Cat: A General Overview

Type:	Non-pedigree cat, mixed-breed cat.
Other Names:	Common domestic cat, crossbreed, moggy (colloquial).
Origin:	Descendants of the African wildcat (Felis lybica lybica), domesticated around 10,000 years ago in the Fertile Crescent (Middle East).
Distribution:	Worldwide; the most numerous group of cats.
Size:	Highly variable, usually small to large (weight from 2.5 to 8 kg / 5.5-17.6 lbs or more).
Lifespan:	On average 12-15 years, but with good care and kept indoors, they can live 15-20 years or longer.
Appearance:	Extremely diverse in build, head shape, coat length, colours, and patterns. Does not conform to any specific breed standard.
Character:	Very individual, from independent to very affectionate. Depends on genetics, early socialisation, and living conditions.
Activity Level:	Variable. Many cats have a moderate activity level, with periods of play and rest.
Intelligence:	High; capable of learning, problem-solving, and adapting to their environment.
Grooming:	Depends on coat length (from minimal to regular grooming). Standard health care.
Health:	Usually considered hardy due to genetic diversity (‘hybrid vigour’), but are prone to common feline diseases and injuries (especially with outdoor access).

History: The Journey from Wild Predator to Companion

The history of the domestic cat is a fascinating story of a millennia-long interaction between humans and a small predator. It didn’t begin with a human desire for a cute, fluffy pet, but out of pragmatic need. The ancestor of all modern domestic cats is the African wildcat (Felis lybica lybica), a subspecies of wildcat native to the Middle East and North Africa.

The process of cat domestication began approximately 9,500 – 10,000 years ago in the Fertile Crescent region (modern-day Turkey, Syria, Iraq, Israel), coinciding with the rise of agriculture. Grain stored in the granaries of early farmers attracted large numbers of rodents. Wild cats, in turn, were drawn to human settlements to hunt these rodents. People quickly appreciated the benefits of these neighbours: the cats effectively controlled the pest population, protecting food supplies.

This was a process of self-domestication: humans didn’t actively tame cats; rather, cats chose to coexist with humans as a beneficial strategy. Gradually, individuals more tolerant of people were naturally selected. They weren’t afraid to live nearby and gained the advantage of a stable food source (rodents) and relative safety.

Ancient Egypt played a special role in the history of domestic cats. Here, cats were not only valued for controlling rodents and snakes but were also revered as sacred animals associated with the goddess Bastet. From Egypt, domestic cats began their journey around the world, stowing away on merchant ships (where they were also indispensable rat-catchers) and spreading throughout the Mediterranean.

The Romans also highly valued cats for their hunting abilities and kept them in homes and on warships. It was with the Roman legions and traders that domestic cats spread throughout Europe, eventually reaching Britain. They became an integral part of rural and urban life, controlling rodent populations in barns, mills, and homes.

However, in Medieval Europe, the attitude towards cats changed dramatically. Due to their nocturnal activity, independent nature, and glowing eyes, they became associated with witchcraft, witches, and the devil (especially black cats). This led to mass persecution and killing of cats which, ironically, may have contributed to the spread of the plague, as the population of disease-carrying rats spiralled out of control.

Only during the Renaissance and later did attitudes towards cats begin to improve. They were once again valued as hunters and, increasingly, as companions. For thousands of years, domestic cats lived alongside people, primarily as working animals and mousers. They reproduced freely, without significant human intervention in their selection. This led to the formation of a vast genetic diversity and adaptation to different climates, resulting in the incredible variety of appearances and characters we see in modern non-pedigree domestic cats.

It wasn’t until the 19th century that people began to selectively breed cats, choosing animals with specific traits (coat length, colour, build) and creating the first official breeds. Many modern breeds, such as the British Shorthair or the European Shorthair, were developed precisely from these local populations of common domestic cats.

What Does a Domestic Cat Look Like: A Kaleidoscope of Appearances

Describing the “typical” appearance of a domestic cat is practically impossible, as their main feature is extraordinary diversity. Unlike pedigree cats, which must conform to a strict standard, non-pedigree cats display a huge spectrum of variations in all aspects of their appearance.

Size and Build

Domestic cats can be of any size – from small and dainty (2.5-3 kg) to quite large and sturdy (6-8 kg or more), especially males. Their build varies from slender and elegant to solid and stocky (cobby). They usually have harmonious proportions and well-developed musculature, a result of natural selection and the active lifestyle of their ancestors. Some may resemble graceful Oriental cats, others more massive European types.

Head and Muzzle

The head shape can vary: from a classic wedge shape with a straight profile to a rounder form with pronounced cheeks (like cats resembling British Shorthairs). The length of the muzzle also varies. The size and shape of the ears and eyes are also very diverse. Green, yellow, or greenish-yellow eyes are most common, but blue (especially in white or colorpoint cats) and copper shades are also possible. Heterochromia (eyes of different colours) also occurs, often in white cats.

Coat Type

The most common are:

• Domestic Shorthair (DSH): The largest group. The coat is short and can have varying density and texture – from smooth and close-lying to more plush. The undercoat may be sparse or, conversely, very thick. This is the most common coat type, as the gene for short hair is dominant.
• Domestic Longhair (DLH): The coat is long or semi-long, with varying density and texture, often with an undercoat, and may form a ruff and “trousers”. It requires regular grooming. The gene for long hair is recessive, so for a longhaired kitten to be born, both parents must carry this gene.

Colours and Patterns

This is the area of greatest diversity. Domestic cats exhibit practically all possible genetically-driven colours and patterns:

Category	Examples
Solid	Black, white, red (ginger), cream, blue (grey), lilac, chocolate, cinnamon, fawn.
Tabby	The most common “wild type” pattern. It has 4 main variations: Mackerel: parallel vertical stripes; Classic/Blotched: wide, swirling patterns on the sides; Spotted: distinct spots over the body (can be a modification of mackerel); Ticked: each hair has bands of different colours, with no clear stripes on the body (like Abyssinians).
Tortoiseshell / Tortie	Random patches of red/cream on a dark background (black, chocolate, blue, etc.). Almost always female.
Calico / Tricolour	White combined with tortoiseshell patches (white + two other colours). Almost always female.
Bicolour	A combination of white with any other colour or pattern (e.g., black and white “tuxedo”, tabby + white). Variations of white: “van”, “harlequin”, “locket”, “mittens”.
Colorpoint	A light-coloured body with darker “points” on the face, ears, paws, and tail (Siamese-type). Less common in the random-bred population, but possible.

As noted in the original text, there is a tendency for cats from colder regions to have a more massive build and thicker fur, which is an example of natural adaptation.

Character: An Unpredictable Personality

Just like their appearance, the character of a non-pedigree domestic cat is extremely variable and depends on a multitude of factors: genetic background (which breed traits have been randomly combined), early life conditions, experience with people and other animals, and, of course, the specific animal’s individual personality.

It’s impossible to predict the temperament of a moggy kitten with 100% accuracy, unlike with pedigree breeds where certain character traits have been fixed through selection. One domestic cat might be incredibly chatty, active, and demanding of attention, much like some Don Sphynx cats, while another might be quiet, calm, and somewhat aloof, spending most of the day in contemplation, similar to a Himalayan.

However, we can identify some common tendencies and traits often found in domestic cats:

• Independence and self-sufficiency: Many domestic cats retain a certain independence inherited from their wild ancestors. They can be quite self-reliant, finding their own entertainment and not demanding constant attention.
• Attachment to territory and home: They are often more attached to their home and territory than to a specific person (though there are exceptions). Even cats that roam freely usually return home.
• Hunting instinct: Most domestic cats have a well-developed hunting instinct, even if they’ve never seen a real mouse. This manifests in play with toys, “hunting” their owner’s feet, or chasing sunbeams. Some cats still bring their prey (sometimes alive) to their owners as a “gift”.
• Adaptability: Domestic cats usually adapt well to various living conditions, whether it’s a country house with outdoor access or a city flat.
• Varying levels of affection: Some domestic cats are very affectionate, love to sit on laps, and sleep with their owners (“lap cats”). Others are more reserved, preferring to observe from a distance and only allowing strokes when they choose.
• Playfulness: The level of playfulness is also individual. Many cats remain active and playful throughout their lives, while others become calmer with age.
• Attitude towards other animals: Most domestic cats can coexist peacefully with other cats or dogs, especially if they grew up together or were introduced properly.

It’s important to understand that early socialisation (introduction to people, sounds, and other animals before 3-4 months of age) plays a huge role in shaping any cat’s character, especially a non-pedigree one. A cat that grew up on the street with no human contact may remain feral and fearful, whereas a kitten taken from a loving home will likely be trusting and affectionate.

Health: Hybrid Vigour and Common Risks

There’s a common belief that non-pedigree domestic cats are healthier than their pedigree relatives. This is partly true and is related to the concept of “hybrid vigour” or heterosis.

Hybrid Vigour (Heterosis)

The population of domestic cats without a defined breed has an extremely wide genetic diversity. Unlike pedigree cats, where inbreeding (close-relative mating) is often used to fix certain traits, the genes in non-pedigree cats mix more freely and randomly. This means that:

• The risk of hereditary diseases is reduced: Many genetic diseases common in certain breeds (e.g., polycystic kidney disease in Persians, hypertrophic cardiomyopathy in Maine Coons) are caused by recessive genes. In a genetically diverse population, the probability of a cat inheriting two copies of a “bad” gene from both parents is significantly lower.
• General hardiness may be higher: Genetic diversity is often associated with a stronger immune system and better adaptability to environmental conditions.

BUT: This doesn’t mean domestic cats don’t get ill! They are just as susceptible to:

• Infectious diseases: Viral (feline herpesvirus, calicivirus, panleukopenia, FIV, FeLV), bacterial infections. Vaccination is essential!
• Parasitic diseases: Fleas, ticks, worms (helminths). Especially relevant for cats with outdoor access. Regular treatment is necessary!
• Injuries: Falls from height, road traffic accidents, fights with other animals (especially in free-roaming cats).
• Poisoning: Household chemicals, toxic plants, poor-quality food, rodent poison.
• Chronic diseases: Kidney disease, urinary tract disease, diabetes, arthritis (especially in old age).
• Dental problems: Gum disease and tartar build-up are extremely common problems that can lead to pain, tooth loss, and systemic infections.
• Obesity: Caused by improper feeding (excess calories, too many carbohydrates) and low activity, especially in neutered indoor-only animals.
• Cancers.

Prevention – The Foundation of Health

Regardless of breed or lack thereof, a cat’s health depends on:

• Regular veterinary check-ups (at least once a year).
• Timely vaccinations and parasite treatments.
• Neutering/Spaying: Prevents unwanted litters, reduces the risk of some diseases and behavioural problems.
• Proper nutrition.
• Safe living conditions (ideally indoor-only).
• An attentive owner who notices any changes in the animal’s condition.

Cat’s Age	Recommended Procedures
Kitten (up to 1 year)	Several visits for a full course of vaccinations, deworming, testing for viral infections (FeLV/FIV), microchipping, neutering/spaying (around 6-8 months).
Adult (1-7 years)	Annual check-up, booster vaccinations, deworming, dental check.
Mature (7-10 years)	Annual check-up, boosters, basic blood and urine tests (every 1-2 years) for early detection of problems.
Senior (10+ years)	Check-ups every 6 months, annual blood and urine tests, blood pressure measurement, heart and thyroid checks.

Grooming: From Shorthaired to Fluffy

Grooming a non-pedigree domestic cat depends primarily on its coat length and lifestyle (whether it lives exclusively indoors or has outdoor access).

Coat Care

• Shorthaired (DSH): Require minimal grooming. Brushing them once a week with a rubber glove or a short-bristled brush is enough to remove dead hair and distribute skin oils. During moulting seasons (spring/autumn), you can brush them a bit more often.
• Longhaired (DLH): Require regular, often daily, brushing to prevent mats and tangles. Use a wide-toothed comb for detangling and a slicker brush or shedding tool to remove the undercoat. Pay special attention to areas under the armpits, on the belly, and the “trousers”. If mats have already formed, they need to be gently teased out or, in severe cases, clipped out (be careful not to cut the skin).
• Bathing: Most cats are meticulous groomers and don’t need frequent baths. Only bathe when necessary (e.g., if very dirty, before a show, or if a longhaired cat is struggling with self-grooming). Use only cat-specific shampoos.

Hygiene Procedures

• Nail Trimming: Regularly (every 2-4 weeks) trim the tips of the claws with special clippers, especially if the cat is indoors-only and doesn’t wear them down naturally. Only clip the transparent tip, avoiding the pink quick.
• Ear Care: Check the ears periodically. Clean only if you see visible dirt or excess wax, using a cotton pad and a special ear cleaning solution. Never use cotton buds, as they can damage the ear canal.
• Eye Care: Usually require no special care, other than wiping away natural discharge from the corners of the eyes with a clean cotton pad moistened with warm water or a special eye lotion.
• Dental Care: This is one of the most important but often overlooked aspects of care. The ideal is daily brushing with a special cat toothbrush and toothpaste (human toothpaste is toxic to cats!). If this isn’t possible, use dental diets, dental treats, dental toys, or special gels/sprays for the mouth. Regular vet checks will help detect tartar, which can only be removed under anaesthetic.

Environment and Activity

• Litter Tray: Must be large enough (1.5 times the length of the cat), always clean, and located in a quiet, accessible spot, away from food and water bowls.
• Scratching Post: Provide several sturdy scratching posts made of different materials (sisal, cardboard, wood) and in different orientations (vertical, horizontal). This will satisfy the cat’s natural need to scratch and save your furniture.
• Toys and Activity:Provide a variety of toys (wand toys, balls, mice) and set aside time for interactive play (at least 15-20 minutes twice a day). This is especially important for indoor-only cats to prevent boredom and obesity.
• Environmental Enrichment: Cats need a stimulating environment. Provide vertical space (tall cat trees, wall shelves), lookout spots (access to a window), tunnels, and boxes. Use puzzle feeders (toys that make the cat work for food) to stimulate their minds.
• Safety: The safest lifestyle for a cat is to be kept exclusively indoors. If you let your cat outside, ensure it is identified (collar with a tag, microchip) and be prepared for the increased risks of injury and infection. Harness-walking is a safe alternative for city environments.

Training and Socialisation

Although domestic cats don’t have specific breed-related aptitudes for training, many of them are quite intelligent and capable of learning basic house rules and even simple tricks. Success depends on the cat’s individual temperament, the owner’s patience, and the right approach.

Key Principles

• Positive Reinforcement: The most effective method. Praise, stroke, or give small pieces of a favourite treat for correct behaviour or a completed action.
• Clicker Training: Using a clicker (a device that makes a clicking sound) to instantly mark the correct action, which is then followed by a reward. This is a very effective and fast way to train cats.
• Patience and Consistency: Don’t expect immediate results. Repeat exercises regularly, but in short sessions (a few minutes) so the cat doesn’t lose interest. Be consistent with your rules.
• Individual Approach: Observe your cat, determine what motivates it (food, play, affection), and use that during training. Not all cats respond to the same stimuli.
• Avoid Punishment:Physical punishment or shouting is ineffective, can cause fear and aggression, and will destroy the trust between you and your cat.

What Can You Teach a Domestic Cat?

• Basic rules: Using the litter tray, using a scratching post, not jumping on tables or scratching furniture.
• Coming when called by name or a “come” command.
• Simple tricks: “Sit”, “give paw”, “fetch” (some cats are naturally inclined to this).
• Getting used to a harness and lead for safe walks.
• Getting used to a carrier (so the cat enters it calmly on its own).

Socialisation, especially at an early age, is even more important than training. The critical socialisation period for kittens lasts from about 3 to 9 weeks. During this time, they need to be gently introduced to different people (men, women, children), calm other animals (if safe), various sounds (vacuum cleaner, TV), and handling procedures (checking ears, paws). A kitten that is well-socialised to people, sounds, and situations will grow into a more confident, calm, and friendly adult cat.

Nutrition: Meeting Basic Needs

A domestic cat’s diet, regardless of its origin, must be based on its biological needs as an obligate carnivore. This means the foundation of its diet must be animal protein.

Key Recommendations

• Quality Protein: Choose commercial foods (wet or dry) with a high content of meat ingredients (chicken, turkey, beef, fish) listed first in the ingredients. Avoid foods with vague wording like “meat and animal derivatives” without specification.
• Balanced Composition: The food should contain the necessary amount of fats (including Omega-3 and Omega-6), vitamins (especially taurine, which cats cannot synthesise themselves), minerals, and a minimal amount of carbohydrates (especially simple ones like sugar or corn syrup).
• Food Grade: Opt for premium, super-premium, or holistic-grade foods. Economy-class foods often contain a lot of fillers (cereals), low-quality proteins, and artificial additives.
• Wet vs Dry Food:
  • Wet foods (tins, pouches) have a high moisture content (around 80%), which helps maintain hydration and is good for preventing urinary tract disease. They are often more palatable to cats and contain more protein and fewer carbohydrates.
  • Dry foods (kibble) are convenient to store, help to mechanically clean teeth (though this doesn’t replace proper dental care), and are more economical.
  • The best option is often mixed feeding (e.g., wet food in the morning and evening, with dry food available during the day or given in portions).
• Natural Diet: A raw or home-cooked diet is possible but requires careful planning and balancing with the help of a veterinary nutritionist. The base should be lean meat (raw-frozen or cooked), offal, a small amount of cooked vegetables/grains, and fermented dairy products (if the cat tolerates them). It is strictly forbidden to feed food from the human table (salty, smoked, fried, sweet, spiced), bones, raw freshwater fish, onions, garlic, chocolate, grapes, raisins, avocado, alcohol, or coffee. Vitamin and mineral supplements are often required with a natural diet.
• Feeding Schedule: Adult cats are usually fed 2 times a day. Kittens, pregnant/nursing queens, and animals with certain health conditions are fed more frequently.
• Portion Size: Follow the recommendations on the food packaging, adjusting for the cat’s age, weight, activity level, and individual needs. Do not overfeed, to avoid obesity.
• Access to Water: Fresh, clean water must be available 24/7. Some cats prefer to drink from bowls placed away from their food, or from water fountains.
• Milk: Most adult cats are lactose intolerant, so regular cow’s milk can cause diarrhoea. Fermented dairy products (kefir, low-fat cottage cheese, plain yoghurt) are usually better tolerated in small quantities.

Pros and Cons

Advantages (Pros)

Disadvantages (Cons)

Uniqueness: Every non-pedigree cat has a unique appearance and individual character. You will never find two that are identical. Potentially better health: Thanks to genetic diversity (‘hybrid vigour’), they may be less prone to specific hereditary diseases common in some breeds. Availability and lower cost: Non-pedigree cats can often be adopted for free or for a small adoption fee from shelters or rescue organisations. Adaptability: They usually adapt well to various living conditions, from a small flat to a large house. A noble act: By adopting a cat from a shelter or off the street, you are saving a life and giving an animal a home. Strong bond: Cats rescued from difficult situations are often especially grateful and devoted to their owners, forming a deep emotional bond.

Unpredictability: It’s hard to know exactly how a kitten will turn out (size, character, coat type). It’s always a surprise. Unknown health history: If the cat is from the street or an unknown background, its medical history and genetic risks are unclear. There may be initial costs for a full check-up and treatment. No guarantee of temperament: The character might not be what you expected (e.g., more independent or fearful). Possible behavioural issues: Animals with a difficult past (street life, abuse) may need extra time for adaptation and behavioural correction (fears, aggression, litter tray problems). Not for showing: A non-pedigree cat cannot compete in breed classes, only in the ‘household pet’ category, where grooming and temperament are judged.

Interesting Facts About Domestic Cats

• African Ancestors: All domestic cats, regardless of their modern appearance, descend from the African wildcat Felis lybica lybica.
• Self-Domestication: Cats likely “chose” to live alongside humans, drawn by the abundance of rodents near human settlements.
• The Mystery of Purring: The exact mechanism and purpose of purring are still not fully understood. Cats purr not only when content but also when in pain or scared (possibly to self-soothe). The frequency of a purr (25-150 Hz) may promote tissue healing.
• Meowing for Humans: Adult cats rarely meow at each other. It’s believed they developed meowing primarily to communicate with people.
• Unique Nose Print: Like human fingerprints, every cat’s nose print is uniqeu.
• Incredible Hearing: Cats hear sounds in a much wider frequency range than humans, especially high-pitched sounds (up to 50,000-65,000 Hz), which helps them hunt rodents.
• Sprinters: A domestic cat can reach speeds of up to 30 mph (48 km/h) over short distances.
• Long-Lived Record-Holder: The oldest cat ever officially recorded was a cat named Creme Puff from Texas, USA, who lived for 38 years and 3 days.
• Sleep is a Favourite Hobby: Cats sleep for an average of 12-16 hours a day, and some up to 20 hours.
• Group Name: A group of cats is called a “clowder”.
• Flexible Spine: A cat’s spine has 53 vertebrae (a human has 33-34), giving it incredible flexibility and allowing it to squeeze through narrow gaps.
• “Jacobson’s Organ”: Cats have a special organ on the roof of their mouth (the vomeronasal organ) that allows them to “taste” scents. When a cat makes a funny face with its mouth half-open (the Flehmen response), it’s analysing pheromones and other smells.
• Righting Reflex: Cats have an innate “righting reflex” that allows them to twist in mid-air and land on their feet. However, this doesn’t always save them from injury when falling from a great height.
• No Collarbones: More accurately, they have rudimentary clavicles that aren’t connected to other bones. This allows them to squeeze through any opening their head can fit through.
• Unique Paws: Most cats have 18 toes (5 on the front paws and 4 on the back), but due to a genetic mutation (polydactyly), some have mor.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it true that non-pedigree cats are less intelligent than pedigree cats?
No, this is a myth. A cat’s intelligence level doesn’t depend on having a pedigree. Among non-pedigree cats, you can find very clever individuals and less bright ones, just as you can among pedigree cats. Intelligence depends more on individual traits and environmental stimulation.

What’s the difference between a normal domestic shorthair and, for example, a British Shorthair?
The main difference is the presence of a breed standard and a pedigree. The British Shorthair is a recognised breed with its own standard of appearance (massive body, round head, dense “plush” coat of specific colours) and a more-or-less predictable temperament. A domestic shorthair might happen to look like a British Shorthair, but it won’t have a pedigree and may not meet all the points of the standard.

How long do non-pedigree cats live?
Lifespan greatly depends on living conditions and care. Cats that live exclusively indoors, receive high-quality food, and veterinary care often live 15-20 years or longer. Unfortunately, cats with outdoor access have a much shorter average lifespan due to high risks of trauma, infections, and other dangers (on average 3-7 years).

Are domestic cats good for families with children?
Many non-pedigree cats get along wonderfully with children, especially if they grew up together or have a calm, patient nature. However, it’s always important to teach children how to behave appropriately with an animal, to respect its personal space, and not to be too boisterous. Since a moggy’s character is individual, it’s worth choosing an animal with a known temperament (e.g., an adult cat from a shelter, whose personality the volunteers can describe).

Where is the best place to get a non-pedigree cat?
The best option is to adopt a cat from a shelter or a rescue organisation. This way, you not only find a friend but also do a good deed by giving a home to an animal in need. Volunteers can usually tell you about the cat’s character, health status, and habits.

Does a domestic cat need a companion (another cat)?
This is individual. Cats are not naturally pack animals, but many of them appreciate the company of another cat, especially if they spend a lot of time alone. A companion can help with boredom, provide playtime, and mutual grooming. However, some cats adamantly prefer to be the only animal in the house. Introducing adult cats requires time and patience.

Why does my cat “knead” with its paws?
This is an instinctive behaviour from kittenhood, when kittens knead their mother’s belly to stimulate milk flow. Adult cats do this when they feel comfortable, relaxed, and happy. It’s a sign of contentment and affection for you (or the soft blanket).