Russian Toy (Long Haired)

The origin story of this breed reads like a fascinating detective novel. At the beginning of the 20th century, the English Toy Terrier was one of the most popular decorative breeds in the Russian Empire. However, the October Revolution and subsequent social upheavals almost led to the complete extinction of these dogs, as they were considered a remnant of the “bourgeois past.” It wasn’t until the mid-50s that a group of enthusiast breeders in Moscow began work to restore the population.

Due to the Iron Curtain, Soviet breeders didn’t have access to purebred studs from England. Therefore, they had to work with the remaining dogs, often of unkown heritage, selecting them solely by phenotype (external characteristics). This led to the resulting dogs beginning to differ significantly from the classic English Toy Terrier. Thus, a new breed began to form.

Surprisingly, the first puppy that became the forefather of the long-haired variety was born in 1958 to a family of two Russian Toy Smooth Haired parents. The puppy, named Chikki, had elongated strands of hair on his ears and limbs, which was unusual for that time. Moscow cynologist Evgeniya Zharova noticed this mutation and decided to fix it. By crossing Chikki with a female who also had slightly longer hair, they obtained offspring with a unique appearance. For a long time, the breed was called the “Moscow Long-Haired Toy Terrier.”

It was only in 2006 that the Fédération Cynologique Internationale (FCI) recognized the breed provisionally, and later permanently, under the name “Russian Toy,” combining the smooth and long-haired varieties. The word “Terrier” was dropped from the name because, genetically and behaviorally, these dogs are closer to companions, although they have retained a bit of terrier spunk. Today, the Long-Haired Russian Toy is a national treasure of Russian dog breeding.

This is an elegant, leggy dog with fine bones and dry muscles. The Toy’s appearance radiates harmony and fragility. It is often compared to a little fawn due to its large, expressive eyes and graceful movements.

Head and Muzzle

The head is small in relation to the body. The skull is high but not too wide, with a clearly defined transition from the forehead to the muzzle (the stop). The muzzle is pointed, lean, and slightly shorter than the cranial part. The lips are thin and tight-fitting, usually pigmented to match the nose tone.

The eyes attract special attention – they are large, rounded, slightly convex, set wide apart, and look straight ahead. The gaze is intelligent, interested, and often a little touching. The ears are the breed’s calling card. They are huge, thin, set high, and erect. In the long-haired variety, the ears are covered with thick and long hair, forming a “fringe.” This feature makes them resemble the Continental Toy Spaniel Papillon, although the body structure of these breeds is different.

Body and Limbs

The neck is long, curved, and carries the head proudly. The back is strong and straight, the loin is short and slightly convex, and the croup is sloped. The chest is deep but not wide, emphasizing the elegance of the silhouette. The belly is nicely tucked up, forming an elegant bottom line.

The limbs are high, straight, and parallel. The paws are small, oval (“hare feet”), with toes gathered in a tight bunch. Thanks to this structure, the dog’s movements are light, free, and fast. The tail can be docked (leaving 2-3 vertebrae) or natural length. In the latter case, it has a sickle shape. A natural tail should also be beautifully feathered.

Coat and Color

The body is covered with moderately long (1.2-2 inches), straight, or slightly wavy hair that fits tightly to the body. The body contours should not be hidden by the coat. On the head and the front of the limbs, the hair is short.

Key Feature: The hair on the ears is long, thick, and forms fringes. In adult dogs (older than 3 years), the fringe should completely hide the outer edges and tips of the ears. There is also feathering on the back of the limbs. On the paws, the hair is elongated, and these “brushes” hide the claws.

The palette of colors is very wide, and rich colors are valued here:

• Black and Tan (classic);
• Brown and Tan (Chocolate);
• Blue and Tan (rare, silver-gray with red);
• Lilac and Tan (Isabella);
• Red of any shade (with or without black or brown overlay);
• Fawn (Cream).

Russian Toys are extremely emotional and intellectual companions. Don’t think this is just a “couch cushion.” The blood of real watchdog “bells” flows in their veins. They possess excellent hearing and react instantly to any rustle outside the door with a ringing bark.

Restless energy and very active behavior are typical for these tiny dogs – the little one might even disturb your sleep with his running around (“zoomies” at 3 AM are a real thing with them). To avoid hyperactivity and destructive behavior at home, dedicate more time to interaction and games. Fill his life with new impressions.

Psychological Traits:

• Attachment: They often choose one “main” owner whom they follow like a shadow.
• Courage: The Toy often doesn’t realize its size. It can fearlessly rush to protect the owner even against a huge dog. This requires control during walks.
• Manipulation: Thanks to their cute appearance, they quickly learn to manipulate people. If you let him sleep on the pillow once, he will consider it his legal right forever.

It is worth noting that in terms of temperament, he differs slightly from his relative, the smooth-haired Russian Toy. Long-haired representatives are often a bit softer and calmer, although this is individual.

Before getting this breed, it’s important to weigh all the pros and cons, as the decorative appearance often hides a demanding character.

Despite the fact that Toy Terriers belong to long-lived breeds, their health requires constant monitoring. The weak point of these tiny pets is primarily the musculoskeletal system. Legs as thin as matchsticks are easily injured.

Genetic and Acquired Diseases

• Dental System: This is the real trouble of the breed. Baby teeth often do not fall out on their own, forming a “double row” with the molars. This leads to malocclusion and early formation of tartar. Brushing teeth and removing baby canines at the vet are mandatory procedures.
• Patella Luxation: A hereditary problem in which the kneecap “pops out” of the joint. It manifests itself by the dog periodically holding up a leg while running.
• Hydrocephalus: Dropsy of the brain, which is sometimes found in dwarf breeds due to the specific structure of the skull.
• Aseptic Necrosis of the Femoral Head (Perthes Disease): Leads to lameness and muscle atrophy of the hind limbs.
• Hypoglycemia: A sharp drop in blood sugar levels. It can happen from stress or a long break in eating, especially in puppies. The dog becomes lethargic and may lose consciousness. You need to immediatly give sugar water or glucose.

Household injuries and falls are very dangerous for the fragile bones of such a baby – just like active games with careless children. If you have a child under 6-7 years old at home, it is better to wait with buying a Toy, or choose a dog with a stronger constitution; for example, it is slightly smaller than a Chihuahua, but the Toy’s bones are longer and thinner, which increases the leverage for injury.

The tiny Russian Toy Terrier is a very “indoor” version of a dog. Damp, cold weather and heat are enemies of its fragile body. The long-haired baby can quickly overheat in the sun due to dark coloration, so his bedding should not be placed under direct rays or near heating appliances. Just as easily, the Toy Terrier can catch a cold – you shouldn’t house the dog in rooms where drafts often occur.

Grooming the Long-Haired Toy

Coat care is not as complex as, for example, that of the Continental Toy Spaniel (Phalene), but it has its nuances.

• Brushing: The hair on the body is not prone to matting; brushing it with a brush 1-2 times a week is enough. But special attention should be paid to the “fringe” on the ears and feathering on the paws. The hair there is thinner and can get tangled. Use a metal comb with frequent teeth.
• Bathing: You need to wash the Toy once every 3-4 weeks or as it gets dirty. Use only specialized shampoos for long-haired dogs to nourish the hair and prevent breakage. After bathing, be sure to use a conditioner.
• Ears: Inspect the auricles regularly. Due to the thick hair, wax can accumulate there. But be careful: you cannot wet the ears heavily during bathing so that water does not get inside.
• Claws: Due to the low weight, the dog does not have time to wear down its claws naturally. They need to be trimmed every 2 weeks, otherwise, they will start to curl and deform the toes, which will ruin the gait.
• Anal Glands: Toys often suffer from blockage of the para-anal glands. If the dog “scoots” on the carpet, you need to see a vet for cleaning.

Picking up a tiny dog, you will feel a noble desire to protect and indulge the cute baby in every way. This is the main trap! Do not give in to sentimental moods. Training a Toy starts from the first day in the house. He will spend most of his life at home – much more than you – so gradually accustom him to loneliness and prevent destructive mischief.

The Russian Toy Terrier will gladly chew your slippers, wallpaper, and wires. This instinct needs to be redirected to toys. An important aspect is the toilet. Make sure the dog learns to use a tray or pee pad from an early age. Unlike the Pekingese, which can be stubborn and phlegmatic, the Toy is very quick-witted, but may mark territory (especially males) if not neutered or properly trained.

Fighting the Bark

Toy Terriers love to talk. If you don’t want complaints from neighbors, train the puppy to the “Quiet” command. Do not encourage barking when meeting guests or at the doorbell. Your reaction should be calm but firm.

If you bought a Russian Toy Terrier puppy and the baby won’t let you sleep with his whining – don’t give in to the temptation to feed the “hungry” dog in the middle of the night. He will gladly eat outside the main schedule and can get used to night “rituals” near the bowl, which will lead to obesity.

The Toy has an accelerated metabolism. Food should be high-calorie but easily digestible. Do not offer the little one thin chicken bones – they are easy to chew up and injure the esophagus with a sharp edge.

Feeding Type:

• Dry Food: Only “Super-Premium” or “Holistic” class for miniature breeds (small kibble). This helps to mechanically clean the teeth.
• Natural Food: Requires a clear balance and the addition of vitamin and mineral complexes.

He needs constant access to clean drinking water. Feed an adult dog twice a day after walking.

• The Russian Toy is one of the few breeds that can “smile.” They often lift their upper lip and show their teeth when they are happy to meet their owner.
• The official breed standard has been changed several times to “legalize” all color variations that were previously considered defects.
• Despite their size, these dogs often work as “therapists,” visiting hospitals and nursing homes, because they are easy to hold and are very warm to the touch.

Does the Russian Toy get cold in winter?

Yes, very much so. The lack of an undercoat makes them defenseless against frost. Even at 50°F (+10°C), the dog may need a light sweater, and in winter, a warm jumpsuit and, preferably, shoes to protect paws from road salts are mandatory.

Do they get along with cats?

Usually yes, especially if they grow up together. But remember that an adult cat can be bigger and stronger than a Toy, so in their games, you need to watch out so the cat doesn’t injure the dog’s eyes with claws.

Why are my Toy’s paws shaking?

Trembling can be caused by cold, stress, excitement (joy), or hypoglycemia. If the shivering doesn’t stop in warmth and quiet – consult a doctor.